Tuesday, April 29, 2014

The Big 5 on Safari in Kruger : Part II

With 3 of the Big Five down, and 2 to go, we were beginning to wonder if we would be lucky enough to cross them all off the list before our departure. The vastness is breathtaking. The wildlife is humbling. And the silence is meditative. Our adventure in Kruger National Park continues.





This vast wilderness has ruined me on zoos forever. I'm all for rehabilitation efforts and facilities, but I just can't bring myself to visit a zoo again. How could I possibly witness a wild animal being confined to a concrete enclosure again?

Just as I was pondering this on our daytime game drive we ran into this handsome fella.


Almost literally!


The Leopard; number 4 of 5. So for those of you just joining us, on Part I of our safari we bared witness (very close) to the Lion, Cape Buffalo and African Elephants among others. Now, having seen the Leopard stroll by in all his handsome glory, we only had the elusive Rhinoceros to find.

Kruger covers an area of 19,600 sq kilometers. Sabi Sand (the region of Kruger in which we were staying) is 650 sq kilometers with an unfenced border to the surrounding Kruger National Park. So just how is one supposed to find all of these animals in the window of a few short days?

The tracker, aka, the crazy guy sitting on the front of the truck.

Highly skilled in tracking down animals from the faintest clues. From a hardly distinguishable paw print, to the way a patch of grass has been smashed. This guy can indicate the direction and location of the animals with serious precision.


He managed to find us some lovely zebras on the way back to the lodge for a little R&R.


Much to our surprise, the team at Exeter River Lodge had been busy setting up a romantic dinner for two in our room. Complete with rose petals.


Right about now I'm trying to figure out the feasibility of living here forever.

Well rested, and with full bellies, we make our way in the dark to the waiting truck for our nighttime drive. Being in complete darkness out here heightens your non-visual senses. Silent no more, this savannah is crawling with things.


We ended the night at the foot of Ulusaba, drinking Amarula, listening to the cacophony of hippos, insects and predators.


And we ran into an old friend one last time; silently watching him devour his freshly killed dinner.



Back to the lodge again for our last night. Only one game drive left to seek out the Rhino.

//
An early start to the day as usual. The animals wait for no one. Within a few minutes of leaving the lodge we came across a Hippo and her offspring.


A short break for tea and drinks of a stronger variety. Our guides know how to multitask; and a tablecloth to boot?! Only one word to describe cocktail 'hour' in the middle of the African wild; surreal.


So we set off back for the lodge. The end of our safari. Would you believe it if I told you that by some incredible force of nature, the Rhinos appeared?



What a send off! We had finally seen all of the Big 5 in all of their glory. Mission accomplished.

I've never been more sad to leave a place on holiday. It was the journey of a lifetime.

4 days and 5 animals that left their mark on me forever.


Just enough time left to drink in the view and one last glass of white.


Goodbye Africa. Till next time. 

"I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up that I was not happy" - Ernest Hemmingway

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